exvlp.over-blog.com/
21 Février 2021
Regardless of the output (esnext or es5) module resolution must be set to commonjs. It's not because FuseBox cannot handle imports it's because FuseBox mimics require statements in development (that's why FuseBox is so fast - it's not altering the code).
| > ~/s/try-fuse-box time yarn webpack 13:41:34 |
| yarn webpack v0.21.3 |
| $ '/Users/mz/sandbox/try-fuse-box/node_modules/.bin/webpack' |
| Hash: ba44e4dd8f7c8cac667e |
| Version: webpack 2.4.1 |
| Time: 1309ms |
| Asset Size Chunks Chunk Names |
| bundle.js 740 kB 0 [emitted] [big] js |
| [0] ./~/process/browser.js 5.3 kB {0} [built] |
| [15] ./~/react/lib/ReactElement.js 11.2 kB {0} [built] |
| [18] ./~/react-dom/lib/ReactReconciler.js 6.21 kB {0} [built] |
| [19] ./~/react/lib/React.js 3.32 kB {0} [built] |
| [31] ./~/react/lib/canDefineProperty.js 661 bytes {0} [built] |
| [81] ./~/fuse-box/modules/fuse-hmr/index.js 2.11 kB {0} [built] |
| [82] ./~/react-dom/index.js 59 bytes {0} [built] |
| [83] ./~/react/react.js 56 bytes {0} [built] |
| [84] ./src/index.js 859 bytes {0} [built] |
| [99] ./~/fuse-box/modules/fuse-loader/index.js 203 bytes {0} [built] |
| [115] ./~/react-dom/lib/ReactDOM.js 5.14 kB {0} [built] |
| [176] ./~/react/lib/ReactDOMFactories.js 5.53 kB {0} [built] |
| [177] ./~/react/lib/ReactPropTypes.js 500 bytes {0} [built] |
| [179] ./~/react/lib/ReactPureComponent.js 1.32 kB {0} [built] |
| [180] ./~/react/lib/ReactVersion.js 350 bytes {0} [built] |
| + 170 hidden modules |
| ✨ Done in 1.83s. |
| 2.03 real 2.17 user 0.18 sys |
| ⋊> ~/s/try-fuse-box time node fuse-build.js 13:41:43 |
| └── default (2 files, 1.3 kB) |
| index.js |
| components/Hello.js |
| └── react (26 files) 106.7 kB |
| └── object-assign (1 files) 2.2 kB |
| └── fbjs (23 files) 33.6 kB |
| └── process (1 files) 3 kB |
| └── object-assign-polyfill (1 files) 1 kB |
| └── prop-types (4 files) 22 kB |
| └── react-dom (126 files) 552.1 kB |
| └── fuse-box (2 files) 2.6 kB |
| Bundle |
| Size: 724.6 kB |
| Time: 949ms |
| 1.27 real 1.29 user 0.13 sys |
#Jeep Wrangler YJ 1991+: Hard or No Start/Long Cranks in the Cold Explained
**This is a rewrite of this post: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/91-hard-no-start-long-cranks-cold-explained-490788/ - so, all credit belongs to that author!
Ok, with the weather turning colder it seems like everyday people are popping up wondering why their jeeps aren't starting like they were in the warm weather. This post is going to try and explain one of the more common problems the YJ is known for and hopefully give you all some way to narrow it down before throwing parts at it that aren't needed. The underlying problem here is that the computer is failing to power up when you turn the key on. Isight camera fix.
You guessed it, the jeep doesn't always start right away. Instead it seems to sit there and crank forever. Usually (but not always) this is followed by a rapid clicking sound coming from under the hood and then miraculously the jeep will start. If you're really observant you might have noticed that the check engine light (CEL) doesn't come on at first and usually only comes on when you start to hear the clicking noise. The fuel pump also doesn't prime itself as usual and will also coincide with the clicking. If you've done some digging into the engine bay you might have also found that you have no spark while cranking prior to the CEL coming on. All of these things are connected my friend. So we have 4 symptoms to check off when you're trying to decide if this is your problem or not:
A check of the trouble codes that the computer stores and returns to you by flashing the CEL with the key trick won't help you with this problem. The whole reason for that is a) symptom number 1; no CEL means no codes either while the problem is on going, and b) even after you get the jeep started, the computer only sees this as a normal start once it gets power, as if you had just turned the key on right then instead of 10 minutes ago. It doesn't realize there's a problem so there's no code stored.
Bottom line is, if you don't have these symptoms (the clicking noise is the ONLY one that is optional) or are dealing with a pre 91 vehicle, then what follows isn't going to apply to you. Sorry but you have other issues that I'm not covering here, like faulty fuel pumps, bad coils, burnt fusible links and whole slew of other possible choices. And for the earlier vehicles, while it certainly could be your computer causing the trouble, all of the tests below with the exception of the ignition switch test, just don't apply to your vehicle. You don't have the same components.
The whole problem here is that the computer isn't powering up like it should when you first turn the key on. The reason the jeep still cranks is that the starter motor circuit is totally separate from the computer. Without the computer though there's no fuel and no spark, so the engine merely spins without starting. When the key is first turned to the ON position before going to START they computer comes on to prime the fuel pump, send power to the ignition coil for the spark plugs, and turns the CEL light on for the diagnostic check so you know the light is still good (and a few other things that don't apply here). The clicking noise you hear is the auto shutdown (ASD) and the fuel pump relays coming on and switching rapidly as the computer tries to power up. As soon as the clicking stops, it means the computer is now ready to go, so you see the CEL come on and the pump start to prime itself. With the computer now powering the ignition coil you get your spark and your engine will now fire.
So, we know that the computer isn't coming on. What we have to do now is figure out why. With the jeep it's not just a matter of 'Oh the computer doesn't come on, it must be bad.' There's several tests you want to run before you rush out to drop $200+ on rebuilding your computer only to find out that it wasn't the problem.
You're going to need some form of electrical testing device for this part. Personally I like one of these small multimeters that you can get just about anywhere these days. I'm not talking about a $200 Fluke meter here, just a small analog meter. I mean come on, even Wal-mart has them in the car department. They're not more that $20 and they'll make tracking down electrical gremlins so much easier than a test light. But if you really want to you can make do with a simple 12V test light to test for power, and a battery powered continuity tester with a light or a buzzer.
Since the meter is what I prefer, it's what I'm going to use. And since this article is geared to everyone, non-electrical guru's included, I should probably mention just how to test with a meter. (those of you who already know how to read one or are using a test light, skip these 2 paragraphs). Now if I tell you to test for 12V, set your meter to measure on the DC scale (AC is for household current). Some meters are scaled differently so pick the one that will let you read the smallest scale to still read 12V without being too small. For example, if you have a meter that reads on 10, 50 and 200V scales then you would want the 50V one. 10 is too small, and 200, while still giving you a reading, would only give you a very small change in needle position making it hard to tell if you're getting 7 volts or the full 12. A digital meter will usually still give you small readings even on the larger scales, but use the closest one just to be sure. Once you have your scale, take your black/negative probe and clip/touch it to a good ground. For me, I usually keep a long jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends and use that to jump the lead right back to the negative terminal on the battery. This eliminates any chance of getting a false reading because of a bad ground (ie trying to connect through paint on the body, rust on a bolt, etc). If you don't have a good ground you could see the test as indication no power and thus end up chasing a problem that you don't really have. Doing it this way also means I only have to hold on to one probe, leaving the other hand free to hold whatever it is I'm testing. Once you have your ground hooked to the meter, simply probe the wire in question with the red/positive probe and watch your meter for a signal, usually 12 volts. If you get a reading on the meter that is less than specified, it could point to a bad connection somewhere or another problem (sensor voltage can actually be a range from 1 to 5 or 1 to 8 volts but for the tests that follow 12V will be the norm). Check your probe connections and then repeat the test to confirm the reading and go from there.
Checking for continuity or lack there of is also pretty simple and again you may want/need to make up a jumper wire depending on where you need to test. For example you may need to test between something in the cab and the engine bay. Your probe leads probably won't reach by themselves so you need to jump with a longer wire. The good news is continuity usually works either way when it comes to polarity so you can jump either the positive probe or the negative and still have it work. The only thing you really want to do to be on the safe side is to disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery to shut down all power. Otherwise you could risk sending power through the meter when it doesn't want to see any power, which could damage it. A good example of this would be testing a wire to a light bulb to see if the wire is broken while not realizing it's got power. The light won't work with a broken wire so you don't realize it's powered, but as soon as you put your meter in line you complete the circuit and the power will flow; except it flows through the meter instead of the wire. So be sure to disconnect that cable before testing continuity. Just remember to hook it back up when it comes time to test for 12V power again or you'll be scratching your head. To actually do the test, set your dial to Ohms/resistance/continuity and simply touch one lead from the meter to your starting point, and the other to your ending power and watch you meter for whatever it does when there is continuity. Usually on the analog meters you'll see the needle sweep across to the other side indicating there is continuity but yours might have a buzzer to tell you without having to look. On a digital meter, you're looking for a reading between 0 and 10. Much more than 10 ohms can mean that there is a corroded connection between your probes somewhere. A null reading means no continuity which is a broken/loose wire. Ok, now that we know how to read the meter, on with the testing.
First order of business is to check your fuses! Now by check I mean with a meter. Don't just look at them, put your continuity tester across the blades and make sure they're good that way. I've seen more than one bad fuse that didn't burn the element out when it blew so a visual inspection isn't fool proof. You'll save yourself a lot of hair pulling later in the game by checking the fuses with a meter now. The first fuse in question is under the hood in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) right next to the battery. Open the cover and look at the diagram on the under side of it. Find the one that's labeled as the Fuel System/ECU. For those of you who don't have a cover, go get one to keep the elements out,
Remember that 12V test on the fuses before? Well if you found that you have 12V then you don't need this test. Skip to test C. If not, then there's a good chance that you have a faulty ignition switch. First though, go back under the hood and locate the Ignition System fuse. Counting in from the right side (using the same orientation as before, meaning the first fuse you count is the one we just tested before) it will be number 4. It should be an orange 40 amp fuse. Test that one and again look for corrosion and loose terminals. If it's blown the ignition switch won't have power and thus neither will your under dash fuse box. If the fuse checks out, locate the ignition switch itself at the base of the steering column. It's not the same as the lock tumbler where you put the key. The actual switch is connected to the key with a rod and is a narrow, usually white rectangular affair with about six to eight wires coming off it. The two wires in question here are the heavy gage (thick) red wire and the yellow wire. First, test the red wire for 12V. Get a sharp, fairly heavy sewing needle and stick it through the wires insulation to test it without stripping off the insulation or pulling the harness apart (your probes might also be sharp enough to push through). Once the needle is in, just touch your probe to it being careful not to ground the needle on anything while it's in the wire. This wire should be hot (12V) all the time, with or without the key on. If it doesn't, you've got a break between the orange fuse we just tested and the switch. Verify this by testing for continuity between the fuses terminals and your red wire where you tapped it near the switch (jumper wire time and be sure to disco that negative cable like I said before). I'm not sure which of the two terminals will show continuity, but one of them should. If you do have 12V don't bother with the continuity test, simply move on to the yellow wire. With the key on this time, test for 12V again on the yellow wire. No voltage on this one but a red wire that passed its own test indicates a bad ignition switch. If you do have voltage here, but failed the 12V test in Test A then you want to test for continuity between the yellow wire tap, and the terminals of the fuses in Test A. Again, one of those terminals should show continuity to your tap if all is well. If not, you've got a good switch but a bad wire between the fuse box and the switch. Time to start tracing your wires to find the break.
If you've made it this far, congrats, it's starting to look like you're going to need a new computer after all. Yippee, right? Anyway, for this test you need to pull the harness of the computer itself, which is located behind the washer fluid bottle on the firewall. Not that big clump of wires you see when you lift the hood, that's the bulkhead connecter. The computer is down below that. You'll probably have to pull the bottle in order to get clearance to pull the connector off. Once you have the connector loose, you'll see that it has a shoulder on one side, and it a smooth line on the other. The terminals themselves are arranged in 3 lines of twenty, separated evenly in the middle by the retaining bolt so there are 6 banks of ten terminals for a total of 60 pins. Now, it's been a while since I had one of these off, but if I remember right, with that shoulder positioned in the upper right corner when looking at the terminals themselves, then pin 1 is in the upper left corner. Maybe someone who's done this more recently can confirm or correct that but our first test should tell us one way or another. Counting to the right from pin 1, pin 20 is all the way to the right, with the bolt hole separating pins 10 and 11, and then it wraps back to 21 all the way on the left under pin 1. That pattern continues all the way through to pin 60 in the lower right corner. Now, the pins we're interested in are pins 3, 9, 11 and 12. Respectively they are: main power from the battery, ignition sense, and main grounds. First test pin 3 for 12V. This should be hot all the time. If for some reason you don't get 12V on what I'm calling pin 3, then count (by my orientation) to pin 18 and try again. Then repeat for pins 43 and 58 (again with my orientation). This will make sure that I'm not orienting wrong. None of those other pins will give you a 12V signal without the engine running (which it won't without the computer hooked up
If pin 3 checks out, test pins 11 and 12 for continuity to ground (btw, if you're going back to the battery for this test, clip to the removed battery cable end, not the terminal itself). You should see continuity on both pins. If not, trace the wires back and you should find a break or a loose connection. If memory serves they both go back to the engine ground behind the distributor. While you're there, test that ground terminal with the end of the battery cable. You could have a faulty connection back to the battery from the block ground that is causing problems.
This is it. If you've made it this far then there's just one more test to determine once and for all if your computer is the culprit or not. From the battery, power to pin 9 flows to fuse F4 in the PDC (the orange one), through the ignition switch, to the Dome (or the Ign fuse according to my diagrams) and finally to the computer at this pin. That's why you've been testing all those other things first. So, with the key on, test pin 9 for 12V. This is the one that the computer actually uses to see if the key is turned on to know if you're trying to start the jeep or not. Without power here then the computer just sits there doing whatever it is that computers do when they're not needed; playing ball with the kids, making time with the wife, sending out spam, that sort of thing. So the lack of 12V here with the key on, and having passed every other test, means that you've got a break between the under dash fuse and the computer. Turn the key off and test for continuity back to the Dome or Ign-Lps fuse and this pin. With no 12V signal you shouldn't see any. If you do, somehow the laws of physics have ceased to exist in your jeep and you should call in a priest for an exorcism as it is probably possessed (or else you somehow screwed up one of the earlier tests). Trace your wire back to the box to find the break or the bad connection. You may need to pull the back off the box to get a look at the terminals to find the break. But in the end that's what your problem is in this case.
Now, if you've passed every test listed so far, then congratulations, you're screwed. Murgaa recorder registration key. At this point there's no other thing that can be causing this problem except for the computer itself.
Well, it's decision time here. You've got about 3 options that I'm aware of.
UPDATE: For those of you who want to attempt changing the capacitors yourself, here's an excellent write up on doing so: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/crash-course-brain-surgery-replacing-capacitors-ecu-492597/
So there you have it. Three (really 5) relatively simple tests to determine once and for all if your computer is going on you without having to buy an expensive tester or take it to a shop or spend hundreds of dollars throwing sensors and fuel pump and all manner of other parts at it hoping to get lucky. Just remember, if you're not getting those first 3 symptoms then this isn't your problem, save yourself some time and look elsewhere. If you've got no spark but the pump is priming, the computer is on. No pump but a check engine light is on, bad pump or bad relay. It's only a combination of all 3 that points directly to the computer not powering up. If you guys think I missed something, or if you've got questions, post 'em up!
(Whoo hoo! 23,626 Characters!
macFUSE allows you to extend macOS's native file handling capabilities via third-party file systems.
As a user, installing the macFUSE software package will let you use any third-party FUSE file system. Legacy MacFUSE file systems are supported through the optional MacFUSE compatibility layer.
As a developer, you can use the FUSE SDK to write numerous types of new file systems as regular user space programs. The content of these file systems can come from anywhere: from the local disk, from across the network, from memory, or any other combination of sources. Writing a file system using FUSE is orders of magnitude easier and quicker than the traditional approach of writing in-kernel file systems. Since FUSE file systems are regular applications (as opposed to kernel extensions), you have just as much flexibility and choice in programming tools, debuggers, and libraries as you have if you were developing standard macOS applications.
In more technical terms, FUSE implements a mechanism that makes it possible to implement a fully functional file system in a user-space program on macOS. It provides multiple APIs, one of which is a superset of the FUSE API (file system in user space) that originated on Linux. Therefore, many existing FUSE file systems become readily usable on macOS.
The macFUSE software consists of a kernel extension and various user space libraries and tools. It comes with C-based and Objective-C-based SDKs. If you prefer another language (say, Python or Java), you should be able to create file systems in those languages after you install the relevant language bindings yourself.
The filesystems repository contains source code for several exciting and useful file systems for you to browse, compile, and build upon, such as sshfs, procfs, AccessibilityFS, GrabFS, LoopbackFS, SpotlightFS, and YouTubeFS.
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